"la cure"

July and August. 

For the French, these are the holiday months. Suncream. Straw hats. Ice creams. Coffees on pavement cafés. Apéros on the balcony. Festivals and village fêtes stretching long into the night.  Market stalls groaning under the weight of plump, sweet summer fruits. Peaches, nectaries, plums, apricots, strawberries. Melons. 

For me this year, July and August have been a time to emerge from my hibernation. To slow down, take stock. And finally get looked after. 

Daily baths in thermal pools. Hosed down. Plastered in hot, stinky, thermal mud. Balneotherapy. Physiotherapy. Group therapy. 

Eating better. Sleeping better. Walking better. Living better. Feeling (a little) better. 

As hippy-dippy as it might sound, my time spent up at the thermal baths has felt like a re-birth. It hasn't cured me. Sadly nothing will do that. But it has helped me to accept the situation. Myself. My life now and my life in the future. 

At the end of July, I was waiting for the baths, a downtrodden and defeated British girl. At the end of August, I've emerged a more confident, more hopeful British girl, who's now a little more French around the edges. (After a month as a curiste, it would be impossible not to feel a little more gallic, after all).

July and August. The holiday healing months. Healing my body. Healing my mind. Healing my soul. Three weeks up at Barèges. Hours spent being pampered. Making wonderful new friends. Dreaming of other possibilities...

Days saturated with mud and water and golden summer light.

be kind

Be kind to your sleeping heart.
Take it out in the vast field of light
And let it breathe.'               
Hafiz

During group therapy at the thèrmes today, we were encouraged to think about being more "kind to ourselves". The psychologist asked us to share with the group the things that make us happy, that help us to be kind to ourselves.

Knitting and spinning were of course at the top of my own list. Whilst I learn to find my own rhythm once again, it looks as if there might be a lot more woolcraft going on around here for the next few months. 

floating

I was nervous. Until I lowered myself into the water. First my feet, then legs, then belly, then arms. All the way up to my chin. 'Trust me,' the physio said.

I realised in that moment that I've become wary of trusting strangers with the knowledge of my illness. For fear they'll make cruel judgements. For fear they'll laugh at me.

'Trust me,' he said. And with my heart racing, I lowered the rest of myself in, until the water was all the way up to my chin, closing over my body. I let the water come, I let the physio hold me, I let myself stop being terrified.

I let go.

Because there, in that moment, it didn't matter if I'm tired or achey. If I slept badly last night. The only thing was the water swooshing around me, holding me up.

The physio gently manipulated my muscles and limbs. Not trying to hurt me. But helping me to feel a little better.

The only thing was the water moving me from side to side. The deep wrinkles slowly forming on my finger and toe tips, rather than on my brow.

taking the waters

Summer pasture lands just above Barèges, July 2010

And finally,
the big day comes.

I get up later than expected from my after lunchtime siesta and trundle over to the Tourist office in our village. The bus for the thermal baths is slowly filling with patients when I arrive ten minutes later. 

The driver takes us up the Barèges valley, along the road to the col du Tourmalet. We overtake panting cyclists wishing to measure themselves against the greats. 

Ten minutes later, we arrive in the spa of Barège, a long, thin village clinging to the hill slope along the river Bastan. The thermal baths have been here for over three hundred years. 

French people have been coming here every year to take the waters. To be taken care of. To find healing and peace in the shadow of the mountain, beside the bubbling brooks and thermal springs.

And finally.
Today it is my turn.  

waiting for the baths

I don't exactly know how long I've been waiting for something. Anything. A month? A year? More like sixteen...

The new doctor has prescribed me a very French solution for my condition - a three week course of balneotherapy (treatment with thermal water).  

Despite the French name - "la cure" - I know a month in thermal water won't cure me. But it might make me feel a little better. To finally be taken care of. To be listened to. Understood. Accepted.

Next week will be D-Day.